“I alloy my own gold in the workshop to achieve different colors of gold, from green, to yellow, to rose,” Ms. Boothroyd said in an e-mail exchange last month. “Yellow gold is what you normally see in the shops, so most people assume that is the natural color. In fact, pure gold is a very deep, orangey yellow but is too soft to be used in jewelry, which is why other metals are added to it to make it more durable.”
Typically these metals are silver and copper. Rose gold, obtained by adding copper, became very popular in the 19th century while white gold, a mix of gold and palladium or silver, became fashionable in the 1920s. Both are now staples of the jewelry trade.
But modern jewelers are experimenting with new tints, ranging from purple and blue to chocolate and black.
Colored gold can be obtained by a variety of techniques, said Christopher W. Corti, managing director of COReGOLD Technology Consultancy.
One way is to create intermetallic compounds by composition with other alloys; another is to form oxides or patinas on the jewelry surface by chemical or thermal treatments, similar to those used to color-cast bronze sculptures; a third is to apply thin surface coatings of other materials.
Purple gold, for example, is formed by alloying gold with aluminum; blue gold is formed by alloying gold with either indium or gallium; green gold can be formed by a simple gold-silver alloy. But darker hues of gold like black and chocolate are generated by forming oxides or patinas on the surface.
“While golds in colors such as purple, green and black are more of a niche market than yellow, white and pink gold, there are some wonderful pieces from jewelry designers around the world,” said David Lamb, managing director of jewelry at the World Gold Council.
The London designer Hannah Martin has used black and red gold in her collections for several years. Her black gold jewelry items are 18-karat pure gold coated with a plating of black rhodium. Nathan Morse, the managing director of Hannah Martin, says the intention is to “flip the concept of luxury almost on its head — the notion that only the wearer knows its true worth is the point here.”
The secret of making purple gold is believed to have been first discovered by the ancient Egyptians, but it is still something of a novelty in the jewelry world. “In the past, purple gold could be obtained but was a bit unstable and difficult to perfect,” said Kean Ng, business director at Aspial-Lee Hwa Jewellery in Singapore.
Aspial-Lee Hwa was the first company to market purple gold jewelry, in 2000, after buying the patent rights from a professor of metallurgy at Singapore Polytechnic, Mr. Ng said.
The color is obtained by mixing 80 percent pure gold with palladium and a secret blend of other metals. “We’re not adding dye to gold — it’s the natural color obtained when all those metals are fired at very high temperature,” he said.
The company sells purple gold jewelry in Singapore, Dubai, Russia, Korea and Taiwan, Mr. Ng said, with Middle Eastern customers the top buyers.
Mr. Corti, of COReGOLD, warned that colored golds could have some drawbacks: “intermetallic colors are intrinsically brittle, and surface coatings by any technique are liable to be fragile,” he said. “With all coatings, be it oxide, patina, electroplating, the color is only skin deep and will wear off in due course.”
Mr. Morse acknowledged that plating might wear over time, which he said could produce a desirable effect, not unlike a patina. “If our clients require the full black, then we offer a replating service, ” he added.
Mr. Ng agreed that colored gold could be brittle. Still, he said, “we are so confident about the quality of our product that it’s guaranteed against any manufacturing fault.”
via nytimes.com
Day: May 12, 2011
030/365/01
Orange tulips kissing the sun.
Mother's Day Brunch at Angelo's: Fabulous For Any Day Actually!
So, as the tradition goes, for Mother’s Day, you take your mother out to lunch or dinner. But my family didn’t do either one for me! They decided, instead, on Brunch, and that too, a day before Mother’s Day, which was this past Saturday.
And where would we want to go for so special an occasion? Why, Angelo’s of course! An Ann Arbor institution since 1956, Angelo’s is known for its hearty diner-style meals, especially its Breakfast menu which is available all day.
We ate too much, but we ate to our heart’s content, and even packed some leftovers! Here’s what we had: Eggs Benedict, Cinnamon-Toast Waffles, Angelo’s Breakfast Special (no, I didn’t get that!), and the Farmer’s Omelette (my choice).
After a brunch like that, you might not wish to eat for the rest of the day, or if you do, it would be quite late in the day!
See for yourself what it all looked like. And what was the best part of the meal? Being with the ones I love, of course: my husband, and my two daughters. Who made me feel like I was the best mother in the world! And I wasn’t in the mood to argue with them, really!
The Social Network, 2010
The only striking thing about this movie to me was the fact that this hugely popular online social networking website was created by a man with very poor social skills and downright terrible people skills! Is that an irony or what? Everything else is just legal minutiae in battling law suits and settling out of court. Not the most scintillating story, nonetheless, a story of perseverance, I suppose.
And does the end justify the means? I suppose that is the more philosophical question that lingers in the background. Perhaps the payoff to the Winklevoss twins and Eduardo was substantial enough where they didn’t seem to mind or at least didn’t care anyway. Regardless, it is a small window into how an idea that originates out of happenstance may generate the next new big thing.
